Poulnabrone Dolmen

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What is a Dolmen? It is a portal tomb where many people are laid to rest, along with some belongings. In ancient times it would have been covered with dirt, the entrance was below the capstone.

This Dolmen is in Co. Clare, in an area known as The Burren. There is a tangible sense of ancientness in The Burren, and with good reason – there are about 90 tombs and over 500 stoneforts or buildings. Interestingly, many of these are in farmer’s fields and you will need to climb fences and hike through rocks and cows to find them.

Poulnabrone, however, is right on the side of the road with a parking lot for convenience. (There is a stonefort down the road too, but it is one that has an entrance fee and an opening and closing time.)

The first time we visited, there was a local making and selling jewelry. He was a treasure trove of knowledge and more than willing to share his knowledge. It was October; he said in the summer he dressed up as a druid and told tales. I was looking forward to seeing him when we revisited in August, but, alas, he was not there.

There is not an entrance fee and you are welcome to wander around, though there is a rope around the Dolmen to protect it. The wandering is somewhat treacherous because of the huge, uneven limestone covering the ground.

According to the plaques located at the site, Poulnabrone Dolmen dates to about 3,000 BC. In doing repairs they discovered the remains of thirty three people; adults and children. It looks like (and this is for all of Dolmens in Ireland) that people died in other places and their remains were later to the portal.

Arrow heads, polished axes, stone beads, quartz crystal, and pottery were found with the remains.

Since a portal is a gateway, I imagine that the belief would be to bring your dead so that they can enter the next life. Maybe they had a sacred ceremony at certain times of the year, bringing their loved one’s remains to be buried on sacred ground. Perhaps a druid oversaw the ceremony. I can envision family members going to the portal to commune with those who passed on also, seeking advise or blessings. Though I’m not sure I’d like to carry a family members bones with me…did they bury them, then dig them up? Or have a special place where they bodies decomposed, then gather them? Was it an event where tribes from all over came or was it a single tribe or even family?

What are your thoughts? I’d love some more speculation!

 

 

Visiting Ireland

When is a good time to visit Ireland?

The weather is fairly consistent year round; rain, wind, mist, and cooler temperatures being the general rule. The average temperature is a mild 50 degrees, emphasis on the mild. July and August are the warmest months with temperatures in the mid 60s to 70s. Plus, it doesn’t get dark until about 11pm. Whenever you go, plan on some warmer weather outfits, an umbrella, hiking shoes, and a scarf.

I’ve only been to Ireland three times so far; once in June, then in October, and finally in August. One of my daughters went in March – so that gives a wide range of seasons. Since the weather is fairly consistent, I would suggest you NOT go during high season (summer). Here are some reasons why:

  • Prices: From B&Bs/hotels to car rentals, you will save a lot of money if you travel out of season. I think we spent three times the amount in August that we did in October.
  • Attractions: By mid March to min October, most everyplace you want to see is open and much less crowded. Avoid those tour buses, lines and crowded pubs by traveling off season.
  • Driving: Whether you’re driving a rental or taking a tour bus, the going will be easier without crowds. Most roads are much smaller than we are used to (how those big buses maneuver those twists and turns is a wonder) and getting around is just better off season. (Though you may miss a battle of the buses as several try to jockey for the turn in the road and the tiny space to pull off for a view.)
  • More personal: The Irish are some of the friendliest people in the world. Since the shops and attractions won’t be as crowded you will have more personal attention and will get to know the locals better.

However, if you can only travel in the summer – go for it! I thought it would be awful in August, but it was fine. Some of that will depend on where you go also. It’s much busier in the bigger cities and The Ring of Kerry, so plan accordingly and have fun.

In the summer the weather is usually warmer, all attractions are open, the landscape is greener with flowers in full bloom, and more B&Bs are open. Make sure you call ahead for lodging.

Was this helpful? What have been your experiences?